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Whenever compiling a roll of London’s finest restaurants, one might expect well-known award-winning venues. Yet, situated prominently among these food giants is a simple salonu found in a far-flung corner of northern London.

A Surprise Accolade

This little Turkish spot, specialising in the culinary delights of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been declared the 4th best restaurant in the metropolis by a respected culinary publication. The accolade has left the owners completely astonished.

“I am completely surprised,” says a proprietor, alluding to his family’s hard graft that culminated in their humble place earning such a lofty position on a notable 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Simplicity

This small shop, which was a simple cafe before its change into a sought-after food hotspot, has maintained much of its earlier feel. It fits just more than 20 people and, except for the dazzling live cooking show, the setup remains essentially unchanged. “It is a small and stocky spot,” says the owner.

A Signature Creation: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is all down to the food, and this establishment definitely excels. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated pleasure. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is steamed to maintain a moist, juicy consistency.

The meat is then thrown into a sizeable pan with spices and oil, which are mixed in slowly. As the savoury mixture heats through, freshly made lavaş—a soft bread—is slapped on top to soak in all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley are placed before the flavourful meat is rolled neatly inside.

It is usually consumed with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a strong burst of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, sharp onions and red, paprika-infused oil tying it all together.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A leading food critic labelled this dish “one of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For dessert, the restaurant’s künefe proves a delight. It is doused in less syrup than is typical, imparting it a deeper, nuttier and more balanced profile.

Surpassing the Stars

Remarkably, this modest restaurant has ranked above several celebrated three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself just behind the top of the list, just after other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave the restaurant stuffed for less than £25, equivalent tasting menus at top-tier establishments can cost significantly more than that price.

A Creed of Heart

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants listed and is found well outside the city’s central zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an expensive city. It is belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and finest food but I don’t believe in that,” states the owner.

“I believe what is most important is hospitality, kindness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

This view is echoed by the list’s editor, who suggested that if he was in a position of power, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London visit this restaurant as a masterclass, to teach them the pitfalls of overcomplication, and to demonstrate what is attainable if you do just one – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Story of Dedication

In contrast to many chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food didn’t apprentice at elite restaurants. “I am very happy of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

A lot of restaurants require years to become successful, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its popularity is thanks to relentless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum used to be very tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Everything is prepared manually; she would do all of this. She is a solo parent and she balanced a life outside work but her friends would visit to help her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. Each of these responsibilities shaped her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he reflects.

An Accomplishment for the People

The restaurant’s recognition is likely to echo outside its own walls. “I think many people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” says the owner, highlighting the broader importance of this gastronomic achievement.